Varanasi, 26.apr.99 So there I found myself, alone with my new friend, waiting for his young helper to retrieve the bag of ganja we'd discussed on the road outside where we'd met only a few minutes before. It was a small shop, only one room perhaps three meters square, two of its walls covered with shelved handicrafts, carvings, chillums and pipes. Another wall contained the door to the narrow stone alley by which we'd entered, and the small bench on which we sat completed the room. A gortty little shop, but warmly lit. I began to pass the time by glancing around at all the carved Hindu icons lining the shelves, the inlaid wooden boxes and soapstone chess boards, but in this holiest and most touristed of cities such knick-knacks are ridiculously common, so I ultimately turned my eyes to my companion seated next to me. To call him unprepossessing would be unfair: he posessed ugliness, and in tremendous quantity. Mangy clothing and stooped figure aside, his already small face with its rounded nose crowning a whiff of long-abandoned attempt at moustache was made to appear even smaller by its frame: a gappy rope-woven mat of peppered black hair, thickened by scalp oil and draped up, across and down from a part just above his right ear. The yellows of his eyes had a dirty, lacquered finish, and his thin mouth contained only five or six visible teeth -- if indeed any enamel yet survived beneath the carapaces of brown streaks branching outward from his pale gums. His saliva was thick and interfered with his tongue as he spoke, which as I admired his physiognomy he began to do. "You know why I like western women?" he asked. I shrugged, polite, but not too interested in what was to follow -- this is, after all, a relatively standard way for an asian man to initiate a conversation. He continued, "I like western women because there is something I love that no Indian woman will do. Only western women." He tried to fix my eyes with a deeply significant look, but I found myself only able to stare at the way his teeth tapered toward his gums. I suppose this heightened the impact of his words when he then burst out, "I am crazy for 69. Craaaaazy for 69!" He beamed elation, both at the very idea of it, as well as at my expression of (no doubt) horror and amusement. I did my best to fend off the mental images which his words would necessarily inspire, by trying to wonder where his several teeth had each been originally positioned in his mouth, and at what angles, but to no avail. "I looooove 69!" he sang out again, then adding confidentially, "you know 69?" I nodded in wonder at who, how and why, when he said, "I hab a girlprend," (he pronounced his f's like p's and his v's like b's), "Canadian girlprend three weeks bepore. She was 45 years. I am 47 years. She take LSD three times ebery day." She'd need to, I thought, as three dirty fingers with nails edged in black wagged in my face. "...and we 69 soooo much!" His eyes sparked with enthusiasm. "And sex also so much! Because you know what she do?" I shook my head, not daring to guess. "She always say, 'Oh, one more, flease, one more!' And what can I do? I want her to be haffy. So ebery day so many time, so much! And apter some days my fenis don't want to work." Dear god, no -- I thought as he pointed to his crotch, -- just focus on the teeth. Picture the fenis and you're done for. He pressed on: "So you know what she do me? We hab nice shower, and she gib me nice massage, and then..." -- Please no! my thoughts cried as his tongue flickered out between his teeth to dance in a small circle. -- "...her tongue..." Still his own flickered about as he spoke, "...around where, you know, fiss comes out..." -- NO! -- "...and then it come to lipe and I must with her more." This last word he emphasized impressively, and then added, "E-ber-y day!" I shuddered in contemplation of the likely truth coming from this slimy man's even slimier mouth. Since he clearly now awaited a response, I found a weak voice to ask, "And no Indian woman will do this?" "Neber," he said resolutely. (He had apparently investigated this possibility.) "And this was three weeks ago?" Like eating chilis, I felt tempted to press for further details in order to eclipse those I'd already been subjected to. He grinned horribly. "Yes. She was here one week." He sat for a moment in thought, and then perked up: "And THEN you know what she do?" I already regretted my question, and wondered when the ganja-boy would arrive to save me. "She say, 'Oh, is my last day in Baranasi, you can do something special for me?'" His eyes narrowed. "And you know what she want?" I shook my head numbly. He grinned deviously, lifing one hip from his chair to point at his butt. I cringed, horrified, terrified, but oddly fascinated. The look her gave me now was *very* significant, and proud. He went on, "And I say I never try, but she beg me, so I try.... and is good! And after, I am washing my fenis..." Must you say 'fenis'? I wondered, but by this point I'd given up all hope of staving off my visual imagination, and was suffering as a result. "...and you know what she say to me?" he continued, "'Again.' So I do. And the next day she leabe Baranasi and she give me $100 US." "That's good money," I chimed in. "Yeah is good money," he agreed. "She say to spend it on curd and cheese and dahl, to reflace so much energy I use for her. Then she say..." and his face now took on its most significant tome yet, "...she say if she come back she want to marry me." He stopped now, looking prioud, and sleazy, and disgusting, when at long last the boy returned with a small wrapped-up piece of newspaper, which he handed to my rancid racconteur, who handed it to me. I accepted it, and started to open it. His grimy hand gripped my own, arresting my examination. "Don't look now," he said, "not here. Later, in your room." I didn't want him touching me, and this business I did not like. "No, I want to see," I said, pulling it away and continuing to unwrap the bundle. He looked at me disapprovingly. "You don't trust me?" "This isn't trust," I told him, "it's business. I can't look, I don't buy." He did his best to look hurt by this, and let me inspect the package, which contained a collection of dry, scrawny buds. But it was good enough. I stood to go. He showed me out, taking my hand firmly and not relinquishing it. When we reached the alleyway he leaned into me, still holding my hand tightly, and asked quietly, motioning again to his butt with his other hand, "You ever try?" I wrenched my hand free, and said, "Well, my friends are waiting for me. Thank you," and started to walk away from him toward the road. As the diustance between us grew I could hear him say, "You don't trust me. I speak from heart and you don't trust me." I turned the corner into the sunlit road, and left him in the shadows behind.